Some replacement radiators were suspect quality and developed joint leaks, so check the radiator.įinally the old favourite: injector-harness, which goes right under the engine’s cam cover, connecting to electronic injectors.

Check where the pipes clamp, under the water pump, for wetness and colour from antifreeze stains. If the job hasn’t been done, do it as preventive maintenance.įuel pressure regulators are a typical Td5 issue, they leak – there’ll be a smell of diesel, and wetness down the back of the engine.Ĭrank position sensors sometimes go faulty, causing bad running, but they’re cheap to replace. Bolts should have been fitted with a thread-locking compound but often weren’t. Check the service paperwork to see if earlier engines have been fixed.Ī bolt retaining the oil pump sprocket can come loose – sprocket comes off, no oil, goodbye engine. Steel dowels were used from VIN 2A622424.

This could disturb the head gasket seal, resulting in coolant loss and overheating. The heads were originally positioned with plastic dowels, which meant the casting could move fractionally. Check the paperwork to see if early vehicles have been rectified. Engines with a number starting 15P don’t have problems, and vehicles with ’52 registrations or newer will be ok. The engine might run-on after switching off, which can be very serious. A symptom is diesel in the sump the oil level rises and the dipstick smells dieselly. However, DIY repair is straightforward.Ĭylinder heads crack around the injectors on vehicles with engine number prefix 10P. The diesel filter is under the rear wheelarch it’s quite common for its bracket to break off. There’s enough torque to make frequent gear-changing unnecessary. ENGINEĬompared to the previous 300Tdi you get another 11bhp and 26lb ft thanks to clever injection technology. Discuss prospective buys on our message boards, too.įor a full low-down on what the experts look for, take a look at our LRO Buying Guides.

Here are our top tips for buying a Defender Td5.

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